eChook GPT Documentation
  • Welcome to the eChook nano documentation
  • System Overview
  • The eChook Nano Kit
    • Versions
  • Build Instructions (Kit V1.x)
    • Build Steps Photos
    • First Power On
  • Build Instructions (Kit V2+)
  • Programming the Arduino
    • Install Arduino IDE
    • Arduino Drivers
    • Download the eChook Arduino Code
    • Programming the Arduino
  • Setting up the Bluetooth
    • Pairing with a phone
  • Connecting the eChook to the Car
    • Power and Voltage
    • Current Sensor
    • Throttle Input
    • External Buttons and Brake
    • Temperature Sensors
    • Wheel and Motor RPM
    • PWM Output
  • Calibrating the eChook
    • Wheel Speed and Motor RPM
    • Temperature
    • Voltage
    • Current
  • Using the App
    • Pair eChook to Phone
    • Setting up the App
    • Logging Data
    • Lap Counting
  • Telemetry (Live Data)
    • eChook Live Data
    • Node-Red Integration
    • DIY Web Dashboard
  • Using the Data
  • Circuit Schematics
    • 12 and 24v Inputs
    • Temperature Inputs
    • Bluetooth Module
    • Throttle Input
    • Current Input
    • Button Inputs
    • RPM Inputs
    • PWM Output
    • Power Regulator
    • Expansion Port
  • All about the Arduino nano
    • The eChook nano Code
  • Bluetooth Communication
    • Bluetooth Packet Encoding
    • Bluetooth Packet Decoding
  • Experimental Section
    • GUI Calibration
  • eChook Accessories
  • DIY eChook
  • Spare Parts
  • Troubleshooting
    • Power
    • Arduino
    • Bluetooth
    • Current Sensor
    • Incorrect Data
  • Contributing
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  • 24V
  • Power not getting to the Tracopower DCDC Module
  • 5V

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  1. Troubleshooting

Power

24V

Power not getting to the Tracopower DCDC Module

24V is being supplied at the input but isn't seen at the pins of the DCDC power module. The most likely cause for this is that the rectifier diode is the wrong way around. This triggers the short circuit protection when the voltage supply is correct - the diode creates a short circuit between 24V and ground and causes the polyfuse to activate, stopping any voltage going to the rest of the board. To fix, reverse the diode on the PCB

5V

If there is 24V at the input pin to the DCDC Power Module, but no voltage on the 5V rail, the most likely cause is a short to ground on the 5V rail, which causes the short circuit protection on the DCDC Power module to activate.

Use a multimeter in continuity mode to check between the 5V rail and Ground. If it beeps, you have a short circuit. If it doesn't beep, check that you have 24V going into the DCDC power module. If not, look at the 24v section above, if you do, the power module needs replacing.

First unplug all connectors where 5V goes out to the wiring harness and see if the 5V rail recovers on the eChook board. (V2.0+ boards, the red error LED will illuminate next to the relevant connector if there is a short in the harness, it won't affect the eChook board)

If the 5V rail doesn't recover, move on to removing the Bluetooth module, Arduino then op-amp (U3 chip, PCB V1.x only) from the board.

If there is still an issue, there is a short directly on the PCB. This could be an assembly issue, or physical damage to the PCB.

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Last updated 2 days ago

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