eChook GPT Documentation
  • Welcome to the eChook nano documentation
  • System Overview
  • The eChook Nano Kit
    • Versions
  • Build Instructions (Kit V1.x)
    • Build Steps Photos
    • First Power On
  • Build Instructions (Kit V2+)
  • Programming the Arduino
    • Install Arduino IDE
    • Arduino Drivers
    • Download the eChook Arduino Code
    • Programming the Arduino
  • Setting up the Bluetooth
    • Pairing with a phone
  • Connecting the eChook to the Car
    • Power and Voltage
    • Current Sensor
    • Throttle Input
    • External Buttons and Brake
    • Temperature Sensors
    • Wheel and Motor RPM
    • PWM Output
  • Calibrating the eChook
    • Wheel Speed and Motor RPM
    • Temperature
    • Voltage
    • Current
  • Using the App
    • Pair eChook to Phone
    • Setting up the App
    • Logging Data
    • Lap Counting
  • Telemetry (Live Data)
    • eChook Live Data
    • Node-Red Integration
    • DIY Web Dashboard
  • Using the Data
  • Circuit Schematics
    • 12 and 24v Inputs
    • Temperature Inputs
    • Bluetooth Module
    • Throttle Input
    • Current Input
    • Button Inputs
    • RPM Inputs
    • PWM Output
    • Power Regulator
    • Expansion Port
  • All about the Arduino nano
    • The eChook nano Code
  • Bluetooth Communication
    • Bluetooth Packet Encoding
    • Bluetooth Packet Decoding
  • Experimental Section
    • GUI Calibration
  • eChook Accessories
  • DIY eChook
  • Spare Parts
  • Troubleshooting
  • Contributing
Powered by GitBook
On this page

Was this helpful?

  1. Calibrating the eChook

Current

The current sensor is calibrated during manufacture. Any inaccuracies in the measurement are introduced by tolerances in the differential amplifier. Resistors with a 1% tolerance have been used here. As such the default calibration should be very close and re-calibrating the current sensor should not make a huge difference to the readings.

To calibrate the current a bench power supply with a current limit function is required. With the power supply off, feed a length of wire through the current sensor, then connect it across the +ve and -ve terminals of the power supply as a Short Circuit - doing this might feel very wrong!

If the power supply does not have a current readout, connect a multimeter set to measure current in series with the wire. Note the maximum current on the multimeter (normally 10A) and be sure not to exceed this later!

Turn the current limit down to 0 and switch on the power supply. Slowly increase the current limit to control the current flowing through the sensor. Due to the very low voltages involved the wire will not get too hot, even when passing considerable current, however make sure to keep an eye on the wire temperature.

Calibrating at around the expected current draw of 20 to 30 Amps during a race is sensible, but few power supplies will be able to provide this amount of current. Coil the wire through the sensor multiple times - the detected current is multiplied by the number of times the wire passes through the sensor. If the power supply is outputting 2A, a wire coiled through the sensor 5 times would give the eChook a reading of 10 Amps.

Note the current being output by the power supply - multiplied as required if the wire passes through the current sensor multiple times. Now use a multimeter to measure the voltage on pin A2 of the Arduino. There is a linear relationship between current and voltage so this is enough to calculate the ratio between them.

(Isupply∗Num.PassesThroughSensor)/VA2=Multiplier(I_{supply} * Num.PassesThroughSensor)/V_{A2} = Multiplier(Isupply​∗Num.PassesThroughSensor)/VA2​=Multiplier

Open the Calibration.h file and update the CAL_CURRENT variable with the results of your calculation.

const float CAL_CURRENT = 37.55;
PreviousVoltageNextUsing the App

Last updated 6 years ago

Was this helpful?