eChook GPT Documentation
  • Welcome to the eChook nano documentation
  • System Overview
  • The eChook Nano Kit
    • Versions
  • Build Instructions (Kit V1.x)
    • Build Steps Photos
    • First Power On
  • Build Instructions (Kit V2+)
  • Programming the Arduino
    • Install Arduino IDE
    • Arduino Drivers
    • Download the eChook Arduino Code
    • Programming the Arduino
  • Setting up the Bluetooth
    • Pairing with a phone
  • Connecting the eChook to the Car
    • Power and Voltage
    • Current Sensor
    • Throttle Input
    • External Buttons and Brake
    • Temperature Sensors
    • Wheel and Motor RPM
    • PWM Output
  • Calibrating the eChook
    • Wheel Speed and Motor RPM
    • Temperature
    • Voltage
    • Current
  • Using the App
    • Pair eChook to Phone
    • Setting up the App
    • Logging Data
    • Lap Counting
  • Telemetry (Live Data)
    • eChook Live Data
    • Node-Red Integration
    • DIY Web Dashboard
  • Using the Data
  • Circuit Schematics
    • 12 and 24v Inputs
    • Temperature Inputs
    • Bluetooth Module
    • Throttle Input
    • Current Input
    • Button Inputs
    • RPM Inputs
    • PWM Output
    • Power Regulator
    • Expansion Port
  • All about the Arduino nano
    • The eChook nano Code
  • Bluetooth Communication
    • Bluetooth Packet Encoding
    • Bluetooth Packet Decoding
  • Experimental Section
    • GUI Calibration
  • eChook Accessories
  • DIY eChook
  • Spare Parts
  • Troubleshooting
  • Contributing
Powered by GitBook
On this page
  • Calibrating 24v
  • Calibrating 12v
  • Reference Voltage

Was this helpful?

  1. Calibrating the eChook

Voltage

PreviousTemperatureNextCurrent

Last updated 1 year ago

Was this helpful?

Calibrating 24v

Due to tolerances on the resistors used to drop the voltage from 24v to a level readable by the arduino (0-5v), each board will require a slightly different calibration. The step down is linear, so only one measurement needs to be taken.

To calibrate this reading, connect the +24v pin to a power source and use a multimeter to measure the voltage. For this example, lets call it 23.5v. Now measure the voltage on the other side of the potential divider, which is the 24v test point on the PCB, and Pin A0 on the Arduino. For this example let's call it 3.6v. Now you need to calculate the ratio between them:

VSupply/VArduino=23.5/3.6=6.53{V_{Supply} / V_{Arduino}} = 23.5/3.6 = 6.53VSupply​/VArduino​=23.5/3.6=6.53

Now enter this figure into the Calibration.h file as variable CAL_BATTERY_TOTAL . Reflash the Arduino for the calibration to take effect.

const float CAL_BATTERY_TOTAL       = 6.53;

Calibrating 12v

Calibration is by the same method as 24V above. Measure the voltage at the 12V input and the voltage to pin A7 of the Arduino and divide the former by the latter to obtain a multiplier to use in the code.

Vinput/VpinA7=calibrationValueV_{input}/V_{pin_A7} = calibration ValueVinput​/VpinA​7​=calibrationValue

Open the Calibration.h file and update the CAL_BATTERY_LOWER variable with the results of your calculation.

const float CAL_BATTERY_LOWER       = 3.071;

Reference Voltage

const float CAL_REFERENCE_VOLTAGE   = 5;

This calibration option is a throwback to when eChook boards had adjustable DC-DC regulators and having exactly 5V powering the Arduino wasn't guaranteed. With the fixed 5V Tracopower DC-DC regulators, the output should be exactly 5V, and as such, this setting should be left at 5V.