eChook GPT Documentation
  • Welcome to the eChook nano documentation
  • System Overview
  • The eChook Nano Kit
    • Versions
  • Build Instructions (Kit V1.x)
    • Build Steps Photos
    • First Power On
  • Build Instructions (Kit V2+)
  • Programming the Arduino
    • Install Arduino IDE
    • Arduino Drivers
    • Download the eChook Arduino Code
    • Programming the Arduino
  • Setting up the Bluetooth
    • Pairing with a phone
  • Connecting the eChook to the Car
    • Power and Voltage
    • Current Sensor
    • Throttle Input
    • External Buttons and Brake
    • Temperature Sensors
    • Wheel and Motor RPM
    • PWM Output
  • Calibrating the eChook
    • Wheel Speed and Motor RPM
    • Temperature
    • Voltage
    • Current
  • Using the App
    • Pair eChook to Phone
    • Setting up the App
    • Logging Data
    • Lap Counting
  • Telemetry (Live Data)
    • eChook Live Data
    • Node-Red Integration
    • DIY Web Dashboard
  • Using the Data
  • Circuit Schematics
    • 12 and 24v Inputs
    • Temperature Inputs
    • Bluetooth Module
    • Throttle Input
    • Current Input
    • Button Inputs
    • RPM Inputs
    • PWM Output
    • Power Regulator
    • Expansion Port
  • All about the Arduino nano
    • The eChook nano Code
  • Bluetooth Communication
    • Bluetooth Packet Encoding
    • Bluetooth Packet Decoding
  • Experimental Section
    • GUI Calibration
  • eChook Accessories
  • DIY eChook
  • Spare Parts
  • Troubleshooting
    • Power
    • Arduino
    • Bluetooth
    • Current Sensor
    • Incorrect Data
  • Contributing
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  • Pre Power On Tests
  • First Power On
  • Plug in the Final Components

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  1. Build Instructions (Kit V1.x)

First Power On

Pre Power On Tests

The Arduino, Bluetooth Module and Op-Amp have not been connected yet as these are the components most susceptible to being damaged by an error with the board. Before plugging in these final components or powering up the board it is sensible to carry out some simple checks.

Visual Inspection

Visually inspect the soldering, looking for any areas where the solder has bridged connections, creating short circuits, especially on the closer op-amp, Arduino and Bluetooth pins. If any shorts are found, fix them. A small magnifying glass can be useful for identifying issues here.

Test Points / Multimeter Inspection

On the back of the PCB there are multiple 3mm silver circles, each with a label ending in 'TP'. These are test points, designed to give easy multimeter access for testing the board.

Test points:

Label
Signal

GND

Ground

PWR5VTP

+5v Power

BattTotalVTP

24V battery signal after potential divider circuit (0-5v)

Batt1VTP

12V battery signal after potential divider circuit (0-5V)

ThrottleTP

Input voltage from the throttle (0-5v)

CurrentTP

Output from current differential amplifier circuit / Current signal into to Arduino

Temp1TP

Temperature 1 input to the Arduino

Temp2TP

Temperature 2 input to the Arduino

BrakeTP

Signal in from Brake switch

To see exactly where these test points are in the circuit, take a look at the Circuit Schematics.

The multimeter tests checks that there are no short circuits on the board. Place the multimeter into continuity mode (aka beep mode) and check that there is no continuity between any of the pads. The most important checks are that no other test point has continuity to the ground test point, and that no other test point has continuity to the 5V test point. There should also be no continuity between any of the other test points.

First Power On

If a bench power supply is available, this is the safest power source to use. Set the voltage to 24V and the current limit to around 0.3A and attach to the power connectors 24v and ground pins. If a bench power supply isn’t available a pair of Greenpower batteries can be used, but there must be a fuse inline between the battery and the board. Preferably 1A, but 5A is sufficient.

Once connected, assuming the current limiter hasn’t been hit, use the multimeter to check that the 5V rail on the board is reading 5V. If it isn’t check the soldering of the power module and ensure that the 24V is getting to it.

Plug in the Final Components

Once you have completed the above checks, plug in the Arduino, Bluetooth module and op-amp.

  • The Arduino plugs in with the USB connection to the outside edge of the PCB.

  • The op-amp has a dot on one corner, this goes with the notched end of the 8-pin socket.

  • The Bluetooth module can connect directly to the 6-pin header on the PCB, or through the included 6 way jumper cable. Ensure that it is plugged in the right way round using the silkscreen labels on the PCB and bluetooth module.

Power up and you should get some flashing LEDs on the Arduino and the BT module. This is now a complete, but unprogrammed eChook nano board.

PreviousBuild Steps PhotosNextBuild Instructions (Kit V2+)

Last updated 7 months ago

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The pin out for the power socket can be found here: .

If you want to proceed with fitting the sensors to the car and wiring it all up before programming the Arduino, jump ahead to ''.

Connecting the eChook to the Car
Connecting the eChook to the Car